Appliqué

• Necessary to ensure the material won't pucker the fabric
• Come in different "weights" (Light, Medium, Heavy)

• Heavy Stabilizer is meant for thicker fabrics and a higher stitch count
• Lighter Stabilizer is meant for thinner fabrics with a lower stitch count

Cut Away

• Use if the fabric has any stretch (ex. knits)

Tear Away

• Use if the fabric is stable woven (ex. cotton & linen)
• Come in Heavy, Medium, and Mesh

• The heavier the stabilizer the more stitches it can handle

Wash Away

• Use if the fabric is sheer (ex. tulle)
• Won't shadow through

Paper

• The cheaper the better

• It'll tear away easier
• Best is newspaper

• Use only when necessary, not the best (like making a bat on PVC)
• A few coffee filters stacked together or a paper napkin work as well

Equipment

Embroidery Machine Needles

• Come in a range of sizes

• the lower the number, the finer the needle

• The heavier the fabric, the higher numbered needle will be required
• The lighter the fabric, the lower numbered needle will be required

Embroidery Thread

• You will need thread specifically for embroidery
• General use thread will be too thick

• Yes it will make a difference

• Do not buy second hand, thread deteriorates and will break easier with time

Anchor

• Heat N Bond
• Steam A Seam

Tension

• The needle thread should be the only thread visible on the top side of the design. If the

bobbin thread is visible, the needle tension is too tight or the bobbin tension is too loose, or both

• The needle AND bobbin thread should be visible on the bottom side of the design. If

ONLY the bobbin thread is visible, the needle tension is too tight or the bobbin tension is too loose, or both

Lady Armstrong's Appliqué Method

1.) Make sure you have your design and materials ready. Sketch a plan showing colors and shapes to be used. Good planning is crucial. Fabric should be pre-washed. It is easier to apply appliqué garb while the garment is still in pieces (i.e. sleeves, tunic front or back).

2.) Follow manufacturer’s instructions to apply fusible interfacing to the back of your design fabric/s. Be careful to iron out any wrinkles. If you get interfacing on your iron use é fabric softener sheet to clean it off.

3.) Transfer your design to the appliqué fabric. You can use transfer paper. Alternatively, cut out the design (card paper designs are best for this) and trace it directly on to the fabric using a pencil or chalk. Another alternative is to tape your design to the interfacing paper that is now on the back of your fabric (making sure that a non-symmetrical design will be facing the right direction when the fabric is turned face-forward again) and trace the design pressing hard with a pen or pencil so the lines are imprinted on the paper. In any case be sure to tape all the layers together while you are tracing so nothing moves while you work.

4.) Cut out your designs. Be neat.

5.) Place the designs on your base fabric. It is ok to overlap pieces of appliqué.

6.) Iron the design onto the base fabric following the interfacing manufacturer’s instructions. Do this very carefully so the pieces do not move.

7.) Place a layer of stabilizer on the back of your project. Pin or stitch the edges in place.

8.) Straight stitch around the edges of your design, through the appliqué, base fabric, and stabilizer. This will prevent shifting in the case of critical interfacing failure and will create a better end result.

9.) Set up your sewing machine to do a satin stitch. This is basically a very tight zig zag. Reduce stitch length until the stitches lay neatly next to each other, with no gapping or overlapping. Satin stitch can be done at any width, but usually between 3 mm and 5 mm is best. Reduce the tension and do some practice runs until your satin stitch is neat, even, and consistent.

10.) Satin stitch (zig-zag) around all the raw edges of your design. Be sure to stitch over (tack down) the loose ends of thread so the satin stitch does not unravel in the wash. Stitches should be flat and smooth without a lot of gaps or overlaps. Use whatever stitch width you like but be sure that the stitches are wide enough to properly hold down the raw edge.

11.) Clean up loose threads as you go.

Tips

• ALWAYS do a test piece with scrap fabric of the piece you're working on
• Use a lower tension, a higher tension will result in puckering

• typically best tension is around 1-3

• Pre-wash fabric to remove chemicals used in its creation
• If you get interfacing on your iron use a fabric softener sheet to clean it off
• You can overlap pieces of fabric, but anything over 3 layers is discouraged
• Start stitching in the center of a straight section. It is much easier to line up the ends.

Special Thanks

• Lady Armstrong