Constructing a Blue Sword
Blue Sword Instructions, taken from the Eriador Construction Site
In case you need more visuals than the below instructions, there are videos on YouTube that can help you out as a reference if you're stuck. Here is one made to mimic this guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7LFhmGzo3Q Do not go ahead and just click it. Go through this guide first so you know what you're getting into!
- 3/8" fiberglass rod for up to 27" overall core (beyond 27" risks failing to flex)
- For over 27", use 1/2" fiberglass or 1/2" PVC core
- DAP Contact Cement
- Blue camp pad
- Duct Tape
- Black cloth tape
- Carpet tape
- 1/8-3/8" rope
- Cover fabric, preferably trigger
1) Cut your fiberglass core to your desired length. Mark up from the bottom of your core at 2" and 8".
2) Take a 1/2" x1/2" scrap of foam and place it on top of your core. Tape a cross of duct tape down over it, then pressing down on it with your thumb, tightly wrap around it with duct tape, compressing it into the tip of your core. This is to make sure your core will not cut away at the inside of your sword blade. (Often referred to as 'biscuit-ing.')
3) Cut two strips of blue camp pad that are as wide as your core (3/8" or 1/2") and as long as your sword blade.
4) Read the DAP instructions. DAP one side of each of your blue foam strips and DAP evenly around your core from your 8" mark upwards toward the tip of your blade that you capped with a foam scrap. When dry and tacky, stick these strips ("flats") onto the edge of your core.
5) Cut 2 strips of blue foam with dimensions 'a' by 'b'.
6) Glue and attach these two strips of foam, one on each side of your core, to make a 'box' of foam around your core.
7) Glue a square 'cap' to the top of your box. Reinforce it with cloth tape.
8) Rotate your sword so the thinner strips of foam making up your box are facing you. Cut two strips of blue foam with dimensions 2c 2" by width 'd'. Remember, 'd' must be at least 1.25" to meet the old minimum dimension requirements.
9) Glue along one side of one of your long foam strips. Glue on the edges of your foam box with the thin foam strips showing, and the top of your box.
Attach your long strip of foam over the glued portions of your box once everything is dry and tacky. This is your first 'blade' layer. When finished, it should look like this:
At this point, if you want to add a stabbing tip, refer to the instructions to do so.
10) Repeat step 9 by attaching your next long foam strip and building up your 'blade' padding. Your side view should look like this, once complete.
11) To expand a thin fiberglass core, you may want to wrap your grip in rope. This is unnecessary for PVC. If you want to add a cross guard it is easiest to do before wrapping the grip.
Rope wrapping: Cut a 6" strip of carpet tape. Place it between the base of your blade and the mark 2" above the bottom of your core.
12) Wrap 3/8" rope around the carpet taped portion of the handle, starting and finishing by securing the rope to the core with a piece of duct tape.
If you want to add a counterweight, now is the time to do so. Otherwise, it's time to add a pommel.
13) After you've added a pommel, counterweight, or stabbing tip as desired, cut off excess foam at the base of your sword and secure the tip of your sword with an 'X' of soft duct tape (that won't rip foam) or cloth tape. Secure the base of the sword by compressing it down to your handle with duct tape.
14) For extra tip security, glue a rectangle of foam down over the point where your core resides underneath your foam. Reinforce this bond with cloth tape.
15) Finish by making a cover, finishing with black cloth tape, and marking the color class accordingly.